Ingredient index

Ingredient notes

Common cosmetic ingredients, what each one adds to a formula and where it fits. We also say when one may just duplicate a step you already have.

Humectant

Glycerin

A common humectant that helps a formula hold water at the skin surface. It turns up in many cleansers, serums and moisturisers, usually without being the headline ingredient.

Ingredient notes
Barrier-supporting lipids

Ceramides

Lipids used in moisturising formulas to support a comfortable skin barrier. Formulas often pair them with cholesterol, fatty acids and humectants.

Ingredient notes
Humectant

Hyaluronic acid

A family of water-binding ingredients commonly used for surface hydration and a plumper skin feel. Sodium hyaluronate is the form you will often see on labels.

Ingredient notes
Humectant / conditioning agent

Panthenol

Also called provitamin B5, panthenol is used in moisturising and conditioning formulas designed for a comfortable skin feel.

Ingredient notes
Multi-use conditioning ingredient

Niacinamide

A form of vitamin B3 used in many cosmetic formulas for the appearance of tone, shine and overall skin condition.

Ingredient notes
BHA exfoliant

Salicylic acid

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA), the one most skincare labels mean by "BHA". It is oil-soluble. Cosmetic exfoliants use it, and people often choose it for oily-looking or congested-looking areas.

Ingredient notes
Tone-focused ingredient

Vitamin C

Ascorbic acid and its derivatives, used in cosmetic formulas for brightness and the appearance of uneven tone. The ingredient form, the packaging and the rest of the formula all matter.

Ingredient notes
Vitamin A cosmetic ingredient

Retinol

A vitamin A cosmetic ingredient used for the appearance of fine lines and uneven texture. Introduce it slowly, on top of a routine that is already settled.

Ingredient notes
Botanical conditioning ingredient

Centella asiatica

Centella asiatica is a botanical used in many comfort-focused Asian beauty formulas. Labels may list the whole extract or components such as madecassoside.

Ingredient notes
Tone and texture-focused ingredient

Azelaic acid

An ingredient used in some cosmetic formulas for the appearance of uneven tone and texture. Product classification and permitted claims vary by market and concentration.

Ingredient notes
Humectant

Urea

Urea is a humectant. It draws water into the outer layer of skin and helps hold it there. Skin already makes some as part of its own moisturising factor. Moisturisers add more to leave dry-feeling skin softer and smoother.

Ingredient notes
Emollient

Squalane

Squalane is a light, saturated oil made by hydrogenating squalene, one of the lipids in the oil skin makes itself. Hydrogenation keeps it stable in the bottle. In a formula it is an emollient that softens the surface and adds a thin layer to slow water loss.

Ingredient notes